Where to Shop, Eat and Pamper in Paris This Fall

PARIS — The French capital is a hotbed of newness this fall. Find following some ideas of where to shop, eat, pamper and take in art.

MAKING THE CASE: There’s a lot to unpack in the new Tressé space in the Marais. The young brand is the brainchild of siblings Sivan and Ketzia Chétrite, offspring of Sandro founder Evelyne Chétrite, and drops one themed “suitcase” each month. The airy interior designed by Charles-Edmond Henry sets off the travel-inspired clothing and homewares. This season it takes customers on a journey to India with a collection of hand-embroidered pieces that mines inspiration from Le Corbusier’s works there. 

A loafer love story will start a new chapter Oct. 1, when Chloé alums Paule Tenaillon and Marine Braquet open their first Parisian pop-up. The duo launched their ethical shoe brand Nomasei in 2019, and the signature chunky-heeled loafer fast became a celebrity favorite. The Marais space will feature until Dec. 31 the permanent pieces as well as a seasonal collection handcrafted in Montopoli, Italy. 

After its wildly successful pop-up last spring, Drôle de Monsieur is opening a permanent door in Paris. The label, founded in Dijon, France, by Dany Dos Santos and Maxime Schwab, plays with nostalgia and dabbles in corduroy and velvet, sprinkled with its signature “Not from Paris” slogan tee. The store divides its nearly 1,400-square-foot space into four sections, each filled with old-world woodwork reminiscent of a very chic university club. 

A little bit of louche is on offer at the Maison Serge Gainsbourg boutique. A reissue of Lee Cooper’s 110, his famously fringed, high-waisted jeans, will be available alongside the brand’s faithfully reproduced chambray shirts. Gainsbourg’s Pierre Marly glasses have also been reissued, and there will be plenty of Repetto’s Zizi model, the modern jazz slipper so beloved by the late singer that he allegedly went through 30 pairs per year. — Rhonda Richford

Tressé, 2 bis Rue des Rosiers, 75004 

Nomasei, 12 Rue Filles du Calvaire, 75003 

Drôle De Monsieur, 28 Rue de Poitou, 75003 

Maison Serge Gainsbourg, 14 Rue de Verneuil, 75007 

PARIS BY MOUTH: Faubourg Daimant founder Alice Tuyet, a self-taught chef keen on animal welfare and certified in plant-based nutrition from Cornell University, is a staunch believer that you can “save the planet but make it saucy.” So she’s turned the tenets of French cuisine into a vegetal fine dining experience, finger-licking luscious sauces and all.

You couldn’t be faulted for heading to 180-seat Brasserie des Prés for the top notch locally-sourced fare by chef Théophile Hauser-Peretti and Thibaut Darteyre, the executive chef of the restaurant’s Nouvelle Garde parent group. But you’d be remiss if you left before trying its ice cream parlour and brand-new first-floor speakeasy, both serving up treats that are as ice cold as they are cool.

For those who don’t want the summer to end, head over to Alma, a bar and cantina set in the buzzy Montorgueil neighborhood that is open for lunch and until late, turning out contemporary dishes as well as sharing plates from Corsica.

Jade Genin dropped a promising career in law to follow in the tracks of her chocolatier father and has now opened her own shop on Avenue de l’Opéra, offering among other treats confections shaped after golden pyramid atop the Concorde obelisk.

Caviar Kaspia has given its historic Paris location a face-lift — and a very good one. Habitués will surely note the place feels more luxurious, cozier and a bit sexier, with touches of mirror, gold leaf and more diffuse lighting. The biggest change? An arch has been carved into the wall lining the main dining area, opening a vista into an anteroom that no longer seems like Siberia. What hasn’t changed? It’ll surely be one of the toughest tables to get come Paris Fashion Week. — Lily Templeton and Miles Socha

Faubourg Daimant, 20 Rue du Faubourg Poissonière, 75010. Open Thursday to Monday from noon to 2:30 p.m. and 7 to 10:30 p.m., Tuesday from 7 to 10:30 p.m., Saturday from noon to 3 p.m. and 7 to 10:30 p.m.

Brasserie des Prés, 6 Cour du Commerce Saint-André, 75006. Open daily from 9 a.m. to midnight.

Alma, 10 Rue Mandar, 75002. Open daily for lunch and dinner, until late.

Jade Genin, 33 Avenue de l’Opéra, 75001. Open Tuesday to Saturday from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., Sunday from 11:30 a.m. to 6.30 p.m.

Caviar Kaspia, 17 Place de la Madeleine, 75008. +33 1 42 65 33 32. Open Monday to Saturday, noon to 1 a.m.

ART ATTACK: A number of big-bang art exhibitions are opening in Paris this fall, including a major retrospective of Nicolas de Staël at the Modern Art museum. The show brings together about 200 paintings, drawings, engravings and notebooks of this key figure in the post-war French art scene.

The Orangerie museum has just debuted “Amedo Modigliani. A Painter and His Dealer,” referring to Paul Guillaume, who represented the artist. Paintings were central to the two men’s relationship.

Another friendship — between Pablo Picasso and Gertrude Stein — is on display at the Luxembourg museum. This show marks the 50th anniversary of Picasso’s death and includes works by Henri Matisse, Juan Gris, Marcel Duchamp and Ed Ruscha, among others.

On the beauty front, the Beaux-Arts will be putting on a show featuring Dior’s blockbuster J’Adore scent, which launched in 1997. — Jennifer Weil

“Nicolas de Staël,” until Jan. 21, 2024. Musée d’Art Moderne de Paris, 11 Avenue du Président Wilson, 75116. +33 1 53 67 40 00

“Amedo Modigliani. Un Peintre et Son Marchand,” until Jan. 15, 2024. Musée de l’Orangerie, Jardin des Tuileries, Place de la Concorde (Seine side), 75001. +33 1 44 50 43 00

“Gertrude Stein et Pablo Picasso — L’Invention du Langage,” until Jan. 28, 2024. Musée du Luxembourg, 19 Rue de Vaugirard, 75006.  Tel.: +33 1 40 13 62 00

“Dior J’Adore,” from Sept. 27 to Oct. 8. Palais des Expositions des Beaux-Arts, 13 Quai Malaquais, 75006. +33 1 47 03 50 00

FOR BEAUTY BUFFS: The buzz keeps mounting about celebrity facialist Sophie Carbonari, who opened her studio at Paris’ Palais Royal, accessible through the Théorème Éditions gallery. She’s developed her own protocol, which can be customized, with prices on request.

For body care, Anne Cali recently opened a treatment room in the new Le Grand Mazarin hotel, in the Maris, which followed her eponymous center in the eighth district. Her slimming and anti-cellulite technique, called GAD, involves palpitating and rolling, in order to refine silhouettes. Prices per session range from 155 euros to 200 euros.

Astier de Villatte, with an offering spanning beauty and homeware, has just released the fourth edition of its Paris guide, called “Ma Vie à Paris,” with 416 pages chockablock with secret addresses as well as other must-sees in the French capital. Published first in French, the English edition will be out soon. — J.W.

Studio Sophie Carbonari upstairs from Théorème Éditions, 170 Galerie de Valois, 75001. To reserve: sophiecarbonari.com/reservation

Centre Anne Cali, 7 Rue Lamennais, 75008. +33 6 47 41 07 46

“Ma Vie à Paris,” at Astier de Villatte book stores, for 49 euros

PARIS BY NIGHT: Imagine stepping into an archly Parisian building, all marble columns and sculpted stones, and being able to let the hustle and bustle of the city fall away at the Solly, a freshly-opened boutique hotel set on the edge of a tree-lined square, with neighbors including the Gaîté Lyrique performance venue and Jean Paul Gaultier’s headquarters.

From the street, L’Eldorado is a functional-chic hotel but this address tucked behind Gare Saint-Lazare reveals itself to be a town house complete with a lush green garden, offering 26 uniquely appointed rooms. Caroline de Maigret, who lives nearby, shared her favorite addresses in the area for the in-house guidebook.

Steps away from the Arc de Triomphe, the new  Hôtel Norman’s name is a nod to American artist Norman Ives, whose mid-century modern aesthetic influences the property’s clean lines and warm woods. The cozy library boasts a fireplace, while the property revives Paris’ famed Thai bistro Thiou as its in-house eatery. — L.T. and R.R.

Solly Hôtel, 4 Rue Salomon de Caus, 75003

L’Eldorado, 18 Rue des Dames, 75017

Hôtel Norman, 9 Rue Balzac, 75008

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