Do you remember Esther Cañadas? Her demonstrative, prowling style of runway walking seems to be making a comeback, including at the MM6 show on Thursday night in Milan, where models slowly stalked the room, making eye contact with front-row guests — sort of — through their censor-bar sunglasses.
Their leisurely pace meant that Ice Spice, who arrived 55 minutes late, could still catch the last half a dozen looks, while the rest of the audience had already spent 10 minutes appreciating the very fine tailoring on display.
They surely noticed vertical panels of silk lining fabric inserted in the back of some supersized wool coats and trenches, which could be gathered up for a more “normal” silhouette.
Enlarging and reducing wardrobe staples was the main idea this season, so there were also ultra narrow coats and suits with a fin of fabric running down the spine, reduced so much as to make it well-nigh impossible to close in front. Likewise reduced, jeans and dress pants came with extra seam allowance jutting out from the legs, giving pants a square aspect when viewed straight on.
Other attempts at reduction, by trapping shirts and coats under tight tulle tops or dresses, seemed forced.
This was a restrained MM6 collection, at times reminiscent of house founder Martin Margiela’s celebrated tenure at Hermès, felt in the demure pencil skirts and boxy, austere tunics in taupe wool or camel-colored suede. Long leather gloves added a glamorous touch.
Military shirts, lopped-off trenchcoats, cable-knit sweaters and striped polos were rigged with removable shoulder structures that gave familiar clothes a fierce, ramrod appearance. They looked cool and chic.
