Elie Saab took an imaginary trip on the Orient Express to set the mood for pre-fall, filling his collection with slinky shapes and warm tones of crimson, sienna and sunset.
Saab served as a conductor this season, taking us along for a ride imbued with cues from Art Deco to disco, for a streamlined yet sultry take on eveningwear that stayed true to his signature glamour. The collection was strong on solid colors, such as emerald, and touches of lace and velvet.
Sequined jumpsuits stepped up here — a silver zebra print version shined while a high-necked black edition flared with a bright floral at the bottom for a dash of dance-the-night-away insouciance.
The Lebanese designer also presented plenty of daywear and experiments with textures, such as a wool appliqué on tulle, woven into a damier check for a summer take on suiting. Treated silk jersey added a leather-look effect on gowns, and silk devoré was laser cut in a floral print on a pajama suit and swingy day separates.
Daywear pieces had polished appeal and shouldn’t be overlooked as a key component of Saab’s growth strategy. His forays into streetwear-inspired items, such as a hoodie with floral lace detail, added a more casual, youthful touch. This all portended the company’s plan to introduce in-between-seasons capsule drops later this year, another effort that will support the company’s transformation into a lifestyle brand.
To wit, the collection comes after Saab’s spectacular “1001 Seasons” show, a televised 300-look fashion runway and concert extravaganza, presented in Saudi Arabia last November, as the house expands into entertainment. Branded hospitality projects are growing, too, including his upcoming hotel in Switzerland and a new, yet-to-be unveiled project in the Maldives.
He’s also brought on board designer Marina Raphael as artistic and design director of handbags to expand the category. Her first design will hit the shelves along with the pre-fall collection, a new style called “The Wave,” with an undulating metal handle.
The new bag line was another highlight of the season, which offered a little bit of everything for the Saab client.
